Dragon 428

I am trying to follow the discussion but can someone tell me what this means? Have to say the way you read it, it's the best saying I have read for quite some time. Sorry to "hijack" the discussion, some interesting points eventhough I am not a banger fan. Dragon

Strangely enough I have just one of him taken at Sheffield. btw, good to catch up with you as well Pedz

Not a desktop but looking at Grant's picture he might be happy with this one? As for the 391 picture. The sun shines nicely on the car plus Andy just seems to look into the camera when I hit the button.

For what it's worth here's some info about the F1 poly count. The highest poly count I could still export as a .mod file was around the 4200 mark. If I got above it the program didn't allow me to export it. From what I have read here and there, it seems that the maximim poly limit of exporting changes between the modelers (don't know why). The bagners work with several LOD and damage (correct me if I am wrong Nick) both require poly's. In F1's we work with High and Low poly's (high detail and low detail). If you'd count those poly's all up you'd end up with a car file that has around 30.000 poly's spread over different files resulting in the size of the car file and requirements for the game to display it all. If you already start with a car that has over 6500 or so poly's this will mean that the poly's for the game to draw/build get more as well and so tougher for the PC. I think it's better safe then sorry to keep the poly's as low as possible even though the PC are getting better as there are still people that don't run high tech PC's with a lot og BHP under the bonet. Would love to know what you think about it Nick. Just my 2 pence.... Dragon

Exactly what I was thinking

The main thing to change the strength of a driver is the line called "rank". The number behind it represents the strength of a car. From my head "Rank 1" means that this is a quick driver. Upping the number 2, 3, 4, 5 etc. makes you fill in the other grid positions. I don't remember exactly but as the game is nascar Heat based the quick drivers start at the front. So if you'd like to see the world champion at the back of the grid you'd have to give him the highest number (i.a. 60 or so). The only problem this causes is that the World Champ will be very easy to overtake as his rank is "just" 60. I know it's a bit daft but there is nothing you can do about it. My advice would be that you set the grid up like it's a World Final race. That way you have always qualified for it and are the drivers put into their respective "strengths/rank" Note: By filling in those numbers the game will not always create a 100% correct grid. The game does make changes to it which is out of our hands but it won't be that a quick driver starts at the front. Good luck with it! Dragon

Flashback? Here And here

It's not Baarlo. My guess is Newtongrange?

Comments: The chassis color is too bright. This can be made darker The body color is too yellow. This needs to be a tad bit darker or "softer" I can only comment on 1 side of the car as there is a real picture to compare it with Signwriting on the fence side of the wing needs to be rescaled and repositioned. In your case there is an empty space on the front part of that side where the real car has a nice spread of name and number. The same applies for the lower right side engine panel. The signwriting needs to be rescaled and repositioned to fill the whole panel. The same applies for the right side panelswhere it reads "Wear ltd". The ltd bit starts more to the right side and is closer to the Scottish flag. Again rescaled and repositioning. The number on the wing looks a bit strange. I think the cut and pasting from the picture hasn't worked out well. Try to redo it in a way that it gets a more "squarish" look as in the real car. The Scottisch flag at the front looks a bit weird as the white stripes that run through the flag look like they are not representing a cross but a diamond layout (not X but <> ). I have to say that it is a skin and at a quick glance you could say that it's a real life skin. But after a closer look you see that there is still a lot to improve. A good skin, no. An effort , yes. My advice: when painting a skin, don't just use the signs from the real car and put them on the skin the way you think it's best. You need to take a close look at the position and size of the size in comparison to panels and other things on the car. That's what makes the difference. It's no use copying a sign from the real can when you put it on the right side of the car but in the complete wrong proportions. Good luck with it! Dragon

Last updated: 08-01-2007 --News--Workshop--For Sale--Ian Helliwell-- www.waynehelliwellracing.com

Because we are asking YOU to back it up. We don't ask anyone else to back his opinion up, thats why

Yes Because we ask you politely. Plus, you have an opinion and we are very interested what kind of back up your opinion has. We are not saying that something is ok, we just ask you a question. We are not talking about that other person you are referring to.

I am trying to refrain myself from posting on threads like these but after reading Erik's reply I just have to. Erik, you say that the render is cack. It's easy to say that it is cack, but could you also point out what is cack about it? That way the guy who made the redner can try to improve it. This, as I am dead curious about what you think is wrong with the render. Look forward to youre answer. As for the skin. It looks good for a first proper attemt. The only thing I would change about it is not to use the bevel and embois tool settings. You can use it but when you overdo it, the signs become messy. You have to fiddle around a little bit to get the effect with it, that gives the signs a little extra. I see that a lot of people who are just starting to paint skins use this tool to their best effect. It is indeed a handy effect but as you'll come to grips with skinpainting, you'll see that a sign often looks better when the effect is not used. Good luck in any further efforts Dragon

Last updated: 20-12-2006 --News--Workshop--Ian Helliwell-- www.waynehelliwellracing.com

It has taken you a couple of years, but in the end it looks as if you have taken the comments on here for granted and kept on going doing your thing. We have often had some heavy discussions about modleing cars and getting things done. From what I see now is that you have finaly kept going untill you have a finnished product. Therefor I'll be the first (well not the first in this thread but you know what I mean) to applaud you in finaly getting a model build, mapped and working in the game. Well done to that What I do hope though is now that you have got a "finished" product, you understand why there were these debates and discussion. Once again hats off for staying at it and getting a finnished product! Dragon edit: spelling

Last updated: 20-11-2006 --Introduction--News--Workshop--For Sale-- www.waynehelliwellracing.com

I won't model it for the simple fact that the car as it is, is more or less in the game already. Paint a skin on the original F2 car from the game (think it's called effto?) and your not far from the real car. There are a few tiny differences between the effto model and the real car that Gordon drives (more tilted wing, lower engine gard panels) so therefor I don't see the need of building a model of a car that's already in the game. Dragon

Ok, sorry didn't knew that Pedz

Have a look at www.waynehelliwellracing.com on the For sale page. you could also try to contact Wayne via his website they are well into Ministox and might be able to help you ot

Because the link is missing an "l" sorry for that www.waynehelliwellracing.com

Last updated: 21-10-2006 --News--Workshop--For Sale-- www.waynehelliwelracing.com

Picture taken at Mijnsheerenland 8-10-2006 during the first heat of the F1's. The grass was still 15-20 inches high when they started racing the meeting. The downpoor on the night prior to the event caused for big lumps of grass being thrown up by the F1's. After a couple of laps this was the challange that all drivers had to deal with. Some drivers even had to make a pitstop to clean the mesh screen stopping near the exit of the track where a few mechanics or helpers cleared the grass from the mesh while the racing was still going on. You had to see it to beleive it.

Last updated: 03-10-2006 --News--Workshop--For Sale-- www.waynehelliwellracing.com

I can see where you are coming from Munster and maybe you are right but from the above quote I can't see any of those comments been made by me in my original first post nor where I "blasted" him?. I did not say that his skin was crap and a waste of doing. I did say that things were wrong yes. I pointed out where I think things are wrong, plus I am giving him some advice on the skinpaiting stuff by saying that he needs to have a closer look on the real life car and maybe opt for the cut and past options from real life skins. My last phrase is a comment in general and not directly pointed at MiNi Tetz. But you are right, he is 15 so I'll have to post positive stuff. Could you please tell me what the age is where I am allowed to post a reply as in my original post (as looking from the reply's that must be some mean, nasty and rude post)? I did think before I wrote it down, just like I do now. When someone (like me) writes something that doesn't fit into the "be positive" street you get the stamp of "he's having a bad attitude". It looks like you are only allowed to post all bright and sunshine on this forum otherwise you "have an attitude".

Lmao, brilliant reply Munster, fair enough m8 Cracking skin. I am not into bangers so I don't know if it is a real life skin but it sure does look like one, well done