Mart 870 Posted March 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 Yeah, everyone seems to do it now. My first car had the tank behind the seat and the higgy had it on the nerf rail but against the chassis. Rob Batten uses a long thin tank tucked right against the outside of the nerf rail so he can get as much weight as possible as far over to the left as he can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mart 870 Posted March 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2009 Just a quick update. The car now has got a floor, well it`s the one out of the old car slightly cut to fit! I`ve welded the mounts for the anti roll bar to the chassis and fitted that. The inside front shocker mount was at the wrong angle so out came the big grinder and i cut a slot in it, adjusted the angle with the big adjustment tool (sledge) and welded it back up, perfect! I fitted my new exhaust and used the mount off the old car, it needed cutting down so the silencer isnt too close to the outside rear tyre/shocker, all i need to do now is bend a short section after the silencer so it points down and doesnt overheat the shocker. Then i`ve had yet another change of plan, this time with the rear suspension. With the car being based on 2002 Higgy the back axle trailing arms are relatively short, longer arms should equal more grip. After going to Rubber and Tug`s weddding and seeing Rubber had made much longer trailing arms (he did this cos some idiot bent the old ones when he hit him while he was parked up....) it made up my mind to do mine. Here`s the old suspension with the chassis pickup points on outriggers..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mart 870 Posted March 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2009 Just a quick update. The car now has got a floor, well it`s the one out of the old car slightly cut to fit! I`ve welded the mounts for the anti roll bar to the chassis and fitted that. The inside front shocker mount was at the wrong angle so out came the big grinder and i cut a slot in it, adjusted the angle with the big adjustment tool (sledge) and welded it back up, perfect! I fitted my new exhaust and used the mount off the old car, it needed cutting down so the silencer isnt too close to the outside rear tyre/shocker, all i need to do now is bend a short section after the silencer so it points down and doesnt overheat the shocker. Then i`ve had yet another change of plan, this time with the rear suspension. With the car being based on 2002 Higgy the back axle trailing arms are relatively short, longer arms should equal more grip. After going to Rubber and Tug`s weddding and seeing Rubber had made much longer trailing arms (he did this cos some idiot bent the old ones when he hit him while he was parked up....) it made up my mind to do mine. Here`s the old suspension with the chassis pickup points on outriggers..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mart 870 Posted March 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2009 First job was to cut the old outriggers off each side of the chassis and remove the plate that the trailing arms actually attach to and weld those to a section of thickwall tubing. Once i had grinded away the remains of the outriggers from the chassis and undercarrage i could then weld my new mounts in place, there were done as far forward as i could (under the front of the rollcage) to ensure the trailing arms are as long as possible. All that was left to do then was make up some longer trailing arms from thinkwall tubing and an insert welded into each end or so i thought....... about 3 different lower nerfrail supports had to be cut off and moved cos the new longer arms hit them when i moved the axle up and down through its travel. Oh well at least i found it out now and not when i hit the first bump! I`m still trying with the panels, so far both cab side have been made but i find it very hard work and slow going. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mart 870 Posted March 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2009 Sorry about the double post, must have a stutter! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budge313 Posted March 18, 2009 Report Share Posted March 18, 2009 I hate being negative... long arms bend a lot easier than short 1's m8......is it poss to put a bit of strength in them.... small piece of flat on the top or bottom so it doesn't fool anything... put it on edge, if you can remember how i strengthened spike's back axle.... would only need to be something like 16 x 5 or 6mm But it's sure looking good m8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spike Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 (edited) i m8 Edited March 19, 2009 by Spike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mart 870 Posted March 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 Cheers Budge, youre not being negative, helpfull! I`d much sooner you say something now then wait until after and say "i did think they wasnt strong enough!" The arms are around the same length as the one`s on the later Higgy so i`ll find out what wall tubing they use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superstox Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 any updates yet ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mart 870 Posted May 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 Nothing with the car as money is tight at the mo but we are half way through refurbing the trailer - shorter, new axles, tow hitch and tyre rack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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